Garden Methods - Crop Rotation - Presentation #3

 

Presentation #3 – Garden Methods – Crop Rotation

If your head is spinning around about what to plant where in your garden, the concept of rotation will help.

Rotating crops, that is.

Rotation is also very important to the health of your garden plants and soil.

What is “Crop Rotation”?

Rotation means not planting the same kind of thing in the same spot every year (as far as annual crops), based on their botanical families.

(Refer to the garden-oriented botanical families chart at the end of this blog post)

The #1 rule of crop rotation is: whatever plant family was planted in a spot one year, don't plant another member of that family in the same spot the next year. Choose something from another botanical family (more on that later). You can rotate plant families to different garden beds, sections of beds, rows, or containers.

Certain plant families have a stronger effect on soil, nutrients, and other factors, for better or for worse. These include: 

Brassicaceae

Cucurbitaceae

Fabaceae (Legumes)

Solanaceae

Poaceae

Apiaceae

Liliaceae

More on this later!

Why use Crop Rotation??

Why is it important to rotate the planting of plant families through the garden?

There are both positives and negatives.

1. Insect Pests

   The eggs and larvae of some insect pests reside in the soil. If, say, you planted cabbage in plot A, a pest of that Brassica crop could still be there the next year. If you plant another member of the Brassicaceae in plot A next year (such as, say, broccoli), those pests have a ready source of food! It's better to confuse them by planting something from a different family, especially one that the pest doesn't like or can't eat, than to welcome it with a Brassicaceae Buffet.

2. Plant Diseases

   “ … plants release toxins that over a period of time can build up in the soil to a level severely stunting or even killing” the plant (Hunt and Bortz, p. 66). This is called “autoallelopathy”. Likewise, there can be a buildup of harmful soil organisms, such as certain species of fungi. This will carry over to the next crop if the next is in the same family as the previous crop. This can spread from one plant to another. You can interrupt this cycle by following with a crop from a different family.

3. Growth Enhancement

   Conversely, plants can leave behind certain chemicals that “can have a positive growth-enhancing impact” on successive plants of another family (Hunt and Bortz, p 66).

4. Nutrients

   - Some plant families (like the Brassicas) are “heavy feeders”. It is important to precede and follow them with a crop that supplies more nutrition (this can also be a cover crop, which we will cover elsewhere). Or, you can add more compost to get the soil going again by feeding the microorganisms in it.

   - Plants of some families adds certain nutrients to the soil. A classic example is the family Fabacea (legumes), which can fix nitrogen from the air and make it available in the soil for other plants (after the legume plant dies, the nitrogen is released). You can follow legumes with heavy-feeding crops or anything that benefits from more nitrogen, such as corn or greens.

   - Be aware that, though most plants like a more neutral range in soil pH, some do better with either more acidic or more alkaline soil. Potatoes prefer more acidic soil than most common vegetables, so try not to follow them with something that needs alkaline soil, unless you balance the pH by adding organic matter.

   - When planning your crop rotations, be aware of what nutrients certain plant family crops need from or add to the soil.

5. Soil Texture

   Plants can have a strong effect on soil texture. Some, like legumes, are “soil builders”. Plants with long tap roots (carrots, parsnips, long radishes, etc.) can “mine” deeper soil for nutrients and trace minerals to bring up closer to the surface. They also can help break subsoil and provide more pockets in the soil for air and water. Farmers are using daikon radishes (a very deep-rooted, white Japanese radish) as a cover crop for this purpose, between other crops.

   As another plus, you can choose to alternate a spot between above- and below-ground crops to affect soil texture and also to thwart soil-dwelling pests and diseases that feed on root crops.

These are all considerations for crop rotation plans. But, it doesn't have to be complex. Start simple!! Mainly, remember not to follow a crop with another that is in the same family (refer to the botanical families chart at the end of this blog post).

(Quotes taken from: High-Yield Gardening: How to get more from your garden space and more from your gardening season; Marjorie B. Hunt and Brenda Bortz; Rodale Press, Inc.; 1986)

Farming has often been done in a basic, 2-year rotation schedule – corn one year, soybeans the next, then corn again the next year, etc. The soybeans help condition the soil and add nitrogen for the next year's corn.

Increasingly, more farmers are adding a third factor into the rotation – cover crops. These are various types of crops (such as rye, daikon radishes, turnips, rape/mustard, oats, clover, etc., or a mix) that help cover and protect the soil, decreasing loss of nutrients via erosion. They also add nutrients to the soil and improve soil texture.

Photo credit: Edwin Remsburg and USDA-SARE

(Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education/US Department of Agriculture: SARE.org )

***********************************************************************************

What is a Gardener to do with Crop Rotation?

(Especially a beginning gardener?)

Keep It Simple!!

Start with a 2-year rotation plan, then go on to others (3- or 4-year) gradually, as you learn to use rotation and see how it works with the kinds of crops you want to grow.

*******

Starting With a 2-Year Crop Rotation Plan

A simple way to do this is to rotate between a legume crop and another crop family.

And on and on, each year alternating the legume crop with something else.

>> Instead of cabbage, broccoli, tomatoes, peppers, etc., you could alternate the legume crop now and then with a root crop (beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, etc.) to condition the soil, if needed. <<

Remember that the same can be done with container plants, if you are seldom changing the soil.

*******

After you have done a 2-year rotation plan for some time and feel you have the hang of it, you could move on to a ...

3-Year Crop Rotation Plan

Add in a cover crop!

Yes, we can do that in gardens, too!

Here's an example:

Then, add in beans the next year again. The cover crop in this example is Oats (year 2), but others can be used. Cover crops will be covered more specifically sometime in the future in another blog post.

… Or, you could do the above-ground/below-ground crop rotation for a 3-year cycle:

This helps condition soil and bring up nutrients from further below. And, rotating root crops with above-ground crops (those with shallower, fibrous root systems) helps to confuse underground pests that attack root crops, such as root nematodes and wireworms (larvae of Click Beetles).

Remember to Keep It Simple.

I'm showing various kinds of crops as examples – maybe some of those are ones you'd like to grow, or you'd like to grow something else from the same plant families.

Here's another simple 3-year rotation plan, alternating these families in a plot:

Fabaceae (legume) > Solanaceae > Cucurbitaceae.

(refer to botanical families chart at the end of the blog post for crop examples)

Let's plug in some popular crop family examples for plot A:

Year 1: beans    Year 2: tomatoes   Year 3: cucumbers

Choose to grow what your household will use and work those into a 2- or 3-year crop rotation plan.

Make a list of what you want to grow, and keep plant family members together in the list.

Just remember:

• Don't follow one botanical family member with another of the same family.

• Include soil conditioners when needed (legumes, roots, cover crops)

• Add organic matter to the soil.

These three things are all you really need to do.

***********************************************************************************

But, once you have enough experience and feel confident and practiced enough, you may want to try:

4-Year Crop Rotation

Why do 4 or more years?

For some crops, such as Brassicas, it is recommended to have a three-year lapse before planting something of that family in that spot again, in order to control the pests and diseases that may plague them.

Here's a general example, for one plot:

Year 1: Brassicas/Mustard Family (examples: cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, mustard, Brussels sprouts, turnips).

Year 2: Solans/Nightshade Family  (examples: tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant)  - OR -

Cucurbits/Gourd Family (examples: squash, pumpkin, cucumbers, gourd, melon).

Year 3: Lily Family  (examples: onion, garlic, leek, shallot, scallion).

Year 4: Fabaceae/Legume Family  (examples: beans, peas, peanuts, limas, cowpeas).

You can choose to reintroduce a Brassica crop in Year 4 or 5.

>> Bonus: some of those families can be used as a cover crop, also:

For the above example – 

Year 1 (Brassica): radish, turnip

Year 4 (Legume): cowpeas, vetch, alfalfa

Here's another example of a 4-year rotation (again, looking at just one plot):

Year 1: legumes

Year 2: brassicas

Year 3: root crop (but not those from the Brassica family)

Year 4: leafy greens (but not those from the Brassica family)

Play with these and see what works for you!

(there is a Practice Exercise coming up! )

***********************************************************************************

In future presentations/blog posts, we'll get into more planting methods you can incorporate (companion planting, inter-planting, succession planting) that help with pest control, nutrients, pollinators, economic use of space, etc. Incorporate those as you feel ready!!

***********************************************************************************

IMPORTANT!!

KEEP GOOD RECORDS!!!

It can be so easy to forget what you have done year-to-year!

You could do this in the form of a garden journal, or with just simple record-keeping.

Having schematic garden “maps” is essential.

Here are types of information to include:

• Varieties planted (include plant families)

• When they were planted (as seeds or transplants)

• Where you planted them

• Expected days to harvest

• When you started harvesting from each kind of crop

• Observations throughout the season: pests (and other critters), diseases, other damage, growth, quality of harvest, etc.

• Temperature, precipitation, weather events that affected or could have affected your crops

• Drawings (maps) of each plot, row, or container planted

• When (if) you added compost, manure, or other soil amendments, and mulch

At the end of the garden year, your notes and drawings will provide you with much information that you can use for the future. You can make up your own journal/planner or buy one, or explore examples on line (see references at the end).

** Mainly, this will help you keep track of your crop rotations – what you planted where, and when. Over time, you can see how your rotation plan has worked! **

And Now (drum roll ….. )

A Practice Exercise!!!

 First, make a list of crops you would like to grow (remembering what your household would really use, and to Keep It Simple).List them with their botanical families.

(refer to plant families chart at the end of the blog post)

Now, pretend that you have marked out a simple 4' x 4' square for a new garden bed (or, that you have built a 4' x 4' raised bed and filled it with good soil). Draw this out. Graph paper can be useful.

Next, divide that into 2' x 2' spaces. Number the spaces 1-4, clockwise around the plot, starting in the upper left.








Then, do another one, and do the same numbering of spaces 1-4. You are going to practice doing a simple rotation with four spaces in a bed, so each drawing will be a different year. Label them Year 1 and Year 2.

Now, with a pencil and your plants list, play around with a 2-year rotation plan. Start with just the Year 1 block. Jot down what kind of crop you'd like to grow in each space, each one from a different botanical family.

Example:








To keep things simple, in the Year 2 squares jot down the same crops, but rotate them all to the next squares, counter-clockwise.

Example:









Now, if you made two more plot drawings like these, representing Year 3 and Year 4, and kept rotating these crops to the next squares – well, you have a simple 4-year rotation!!!

Further practice:

• Try keeping the same plant families in the same order as before, but substitute other kinds of crops in those families that you'd like to grow.

  (For example: broccoli, peppers, leeks, peas)

• Try doing the same, but using a cover crop for of the families, in the second year.

  (For example: Year 2: cowpeas, cabbage, tomatoes, onions, OR: beans, daikon radish, tomatoes, onions)

• Try using some other families in your rotation than you did in your original example. Try changing just one family first, then try more.

  (For example: cabbage (Brass.), cucumbers (Cucurbit), onions, beans. Or: lettuce (Asteraceae), cucumbers, onions, beans.

• Try doing a rotation that includes both above-ground and below-ground crops.

  (For example: Year 1: cabbage, tomatoes, carrots, beans; Year 2: bean, radish, tomato, lettuce.

I've been using basic square plot examples, similar to Square Foot Gardening. But, rotations are adaptable to any other garden design shown in previous presentations: rows, wide rows, various bed shapes, incorporating verticals, and container gardens.

Now, look at the plans you have already been working on for your prospective garden, from the very first Grow City workshop on (the ones started on graph paper).

Use your “wish list” that you came up with at the end of the “Garden Methods” presentation/blog post.

Take what you have learned from this Crop Rotation presentation and use it in your plan!

And, be sure to share your plans with us at Grow City Teaching Garden, on the Facebook page or via email!

***********************************************************************************

And, now (another drum roll ... )

That long-awaited botanical families chart I kept referring to!! This would be a really good one to copy and paste (and print out) into your record-keeping, for reference. After that, I'll include a list of Garden Planners to investigate – find what works for you or use them as inspiration to create your own.

Botanical Families Commonly Used in Food Gardens

Family names and descriptions, and garden plant examples:

Brassicaceae – sharp, peppery flavor, 4-petaled flowers, seed pods are siliques or silicles

Broccoli, cabbage, Brussels Sprout, Cauliflower, Kale, Radish, Turnip, Collard, Mizuna, Mustard, Arugula, Komatsuna, Kohlrabi, Bok Choy, Rutabaga, Horse-radish.

Hearty feeders – precede with legumes 

Cucurbitaceae – mostly native to temperate or tropical areas, crawling or climbing vines, tendrils, flowers 5-petaled (petals fused together), many flattened seeds and tough rind.

Cucumber, Melon, Squash, Pumpkin, Watermelon, Luffa

Precede with winter rye or wheat, follow with legume.

Poaceae (Grass Family) – wind-pollinated, parallel veins on leaves, a cylindrical sheath wraps around the stem with the blade (leaf) above, node where the base of the leaf attaches, flower/seed heads are spikelets.

Wheat, Oat, Rye, Corn, Sorghum, Barley, Millet

Plant before Solanaceae or Cucurbitaceae. Good for controlling weeds, and as a cover crop.

Fabaceae (Legumes) – one-chambered seed pods that split open on two sides.

 All Beans, Pea, Soybean, Lentil, Lima,  Peanut, Chickpea, Clover, Vetch, Alfalfa

Beneficial to soil (fixes nitrogen from air) – good before or after heavy-feeders and plants that need more nitrogen. Some used as cover crop.

Liliaceae (mainly Alliums) – showy flowers with parts in 3's, parallel veins in leaves.

Onion, Garlic, Shallot, Leek, Chive

Good to rotate with legumes.

(Note: Asparagus used to be classified in this family, but has been reclassified into Asparagaceae).

Solanaceae (Nightshade Family) – flowers have five united petals, stamens fused in the center in a cone shape.

Tomato, Pepper, Eggplant, Tomatillo, Potato, Ground Cherry, Husk Tomato

Heavy feeders – precede with cereal grain or grass, follow with legumes.

Apiaceae – tiny flowers grouped in compound umbels (umbrella form), stems of the flower cluster radiate from a common point, stems usually hollow between nodes, petioles along the stem have sheathing bases, aromatic.

Carrot, Celery, Celeriac, ,Parsnip. Many herbs: Coriander/Cilantro, Fennel, Chervil, Dill, Parsley, Angelica, Caraway, Anise, Cumin.

Follow with legumes or heavy mulch.

Lamiaceae (Mint Family) – square stems (in cross-section), leaves arranged opposite each other along stem, flowers 2-lipped and tubular, plant aromatic.

All Mints, Oregano, Basil, Lemon Balm, Catnip, Thyme, Sage, Lavender, Salvia, Marjoram, Savory, Rosemary

Many are good companion plants and attract pollinators.

Asteraceae (Aster/Sunflower Family) – many tiny true flowers aggregated together in a flower head (composite form), some flower heads have showy, sterile petals around the edge. 

Sunflower, Lettuce, Cardoon, Artichoke, Jerusalem Artichoke (Sun Root), Calendula, Endive, Chamomile, Salsify, Tarragon, Escarole, Bee Balm/Bergamot, Marigold, Zinnia, Chicory/Radicchio.

Very good for attracting pollinators. 

Amaranthaceae – weedy plants lacking obvious flowers, globby or poky seeds along stems

Beet, Swiss Chard, Spinach, Amaranth, Quinoa, Orach

(includes the sub-family Chenopodiaceae, which used to be a separate family called Goosefoot)

Polygoneaceae (Knotweed/Buckwheat Family) - Leaf-like sheaths around stem just above where

leaf blade attaches to stem, swellings at nodes, clusters of small, knobby flowers, usually pink

or white.

Buckwheat, Rhubarb, Sorrel

Buckwheat is a good summer cover crop.

Malvaceae (Mallows) – leaves arranged alternately on stem, a stipule on the stem below each leaf. Showy petals.

Okra, all Mallows (including Marsh Mallow), Hibiscus, Cotton

Convolvulaceae (Morning Glory Family) – twining vines, showy flowers with fused petals.

Sweet Potato

Caprifoliaceae (Honeysuckle Family) - leaves oppositely arranged on stem, aromatic plant.

 Corn Salad/Mache, Valerian

Garden Planners

SouthernExposure.com/gardenplanner

• try free for a week/can subscribe for $29/year. On-line tool throughout the year.

Thespruce.com/free-garden-planners-1357749

11 Free Garden Planners and Programs

Gardeners.com/how-to/kitchen-garden-planner/kgp_home.htm

Kitchen Garden Planner – Gardener's Supply Company

• using Square-Foot Garden techniques to create a raised bed garden.

Gardenandhappy.com/free-garden-planners

10 of the Best Free Garden Planners Available Online

Motherearthnews.com/garden-planner/vegetable-garden-planner

Clydesvegetableplantingchart.com

• How to buy it (also available through Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds)

Seed Germination Testing: Interlude Presentation #1

 Interlude Presentation #1: Seed Germination Testing

First, what is an "Interlude Presentation"? Well, it could be that I don't have the next regular presentation ready yet, but a timely topic has come up that I feel I need to share. Or, it could be that there's a semi-related topic that I feel is beneficial to insert. In this case, the pandemic sent everything sideways before I could get to the next presentation, but something on seed testing is needed now.

What is seed germination, and why test for it?

Here's a Wikipedia definition for germination: 

"Germination is usually the growth of a plant contained within a seed; it results in the formation of the seedling. It is also the process of reactivation of metabolic machinery of the seed resulting in the emergence of radicle and plumule."

The "radicle" means the beginning of the root. The "plumule" is the beginning of the stem and first leaves. These are most easily seen by soaking a bean seed and watching it start to grow.

Check out this little video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pg92cspLy0I

But, why test seeds for germination?

You can save seeds, and save money.

You may have seed left over from last year. Maybe you didn't need to plant all the seeds from a packet, or you have a packet you didn't use. Or, you saved seeds from plants and vegetables you grew last year (saving seeds will be a whole other presentation sometime) and need to know how good they are.

Are they still good? Will they grow at all? If they do, how many will grow? Instead of buying whole new seeds, it's possible you could use what you have, which will save money.

And if you have saved seeds from heirloom plants, that means you are also saving heritage, or you have been selecting for certain traits, and you want to be sure these seeds are going to work this year.

And, instead of taking the chance and possibly wasting space by planting seeds that might not come up, or would come up poorly, you can test your seeds to see if they are worth taking the chance.

In other words, you want to know how many of your seeds will actually sprout.

The germination rate has to do with the percentage of seeds that sprouted from the total number, within a certain period of time. You can use that final percentage to determine if your package of seeds is worth saving and planting. More on that in a bit.

Seed companies test seed for germination rates before packaging and selling them, and some print the % germination on the package. They also print a date for when the seed was tested, or when it was packaged, or when it was "packed for". If your packet is beyond the year noted, you may need to do your own, updated germination test.

And, that test is very easy to do!

How do you do seed germination tests?

The following is a series of photos showing the process I use. Sometimes I use the "paper towel method", and sometimes the "coffee filter method". 

I normally will put 10 of a type of seed to the test, and this is because it's really easy to determine the germination rate with 10 seeds. If all 10 seeds germinate, it's 100%. If 5 seeds germinate, it's 50%. You get the idea. I will keep seeds to plant that test 90-100%, for sure. Sometimes I'll take a chance on seeds that test at 80%, if I just really want to get something out of them.

Sometimes I'll test only 5 seeds if I don't have very many seeds left (or if they are very large). The percentage is not as easy to figure out, but you can guesstimate pretty well. Ten is best, though, and more reliable.

I'm sure seed companies test with a much larger number of seeds, but the home gardener doesn't usually have that luxury.

Let's start with the "paper towel method". The first examples use Luffa seeds, which are very easy to see. These Luffa seeds were saved from Luffa gourds I grew two years previous.

Here, I have set out one sheet of paper towel and sprayed it with water so that it is pretty wet but not soaking.

A dish of Luffa seeds is ready, with packets nearby of other seeds I want to test. 

With the "paper towel method", I test more than one kind of seed at a time. When possible, I try to use the same types of seeds (such as beans, or lettuces) on a section of towel, or certain sizes of seeds (tiny, medium, or large).

And, after saying that, here I have different sizes and types on one towel. :D 

Notice that I have 10 of each kind of seed. Notice also that I've labeled each on a strip of paper. I can't emphasize enough that ... LABELING IS VERY IMPORTANT!! It's way too easy to lose track, and in seed testing that can be very frustrating. Not good labeling = not viable testing. On each of these labels I've put the type of plant (e.g. Cabbage), the variety (e.g. Kalibos), the source of the seed (either the seed company or what garden it was saved from) and then either the year of the seed packet or the year the seed was saved from the garden. This helps me make a definite match later to my store of seeds. So, I have: Luffa (no variety), saved from my home garden in 2018, and Kalibos Cabbage, a packet of seeds from Pinetree Seeds company in 2020.

Next, place another sheet of paper towel carefully over the sheet of seeds, and spray it with water so it's pretty wet but not soaking.

Then, carefully roll up the paper towel seed test. Label the whole roll! This way, you can tell at a glance what seeds are contained in the roll - this makes things much easier. Place the roll in a plastic bag (such as a gallon-size freezer bag). As you do more paper towel seed tests (if you need to do more), keep labeling the rolls and placing them in the bag.

Then, place the whole bag in a place that will stay warm! I put mine on top of the refrigerator, which is always giving off some warmth. Other good spots are on top of a freezer or hot water heater, in a sunny window spot, near a heating vent. They need to stay a little warm, but not hot! 

BUT, WAIT!!!

Before you roll up those towels and put them in the bag, there's another VERY IMPORTANT thing you need to do ...

You need to keep good records! How you do this is up to you, but here's what I do. 

I use a sheet of notebook paper and make columns (some people like to use computer spreadsheets, but a notebook works fine for me). At the top I put the year. Since I work with a number of different garden sites, I also note at the top which garden the seeds are for.

The first column is for the date the seed test was started. You might do all of yours on one day and just need to put that date at the top. I have so many to do for different gardens that I end up starting groups of them on different days, and it's very important to keep track of the day you started a seed test!

My second column is for the "type" of crop, such as pea, lettuce, summer squash, pole bean, flowers, etc. My third column is for the particular variety (such as "Kalibos"). 

The next column is for the seed origin - the seed company and year of the seed packet, or the garden saved from and what year the seed was harvested and saved.

The next columns are for keeping a record of germination rates. I check them at one and then two weeks, so I put down the date for each germination check. In those columns, for each crop, I note the percentage germination. It's simpler to just check them at two weeks, but be sure to write down the date.

The last column is for - keep or toss? This makes it easy for when the tests are all done and I go through all my seed, getting rid of those that didn't test well.

And, here's my next set of paper towel seed tests getting started (it helps to have a cup of tea handy). You can see that, on my record sheet, I've drawn a line between sets of tests. Another simple thing to make things easier later.

And here's another seed germination test being set up with paper towels, this one all for heirloom beans. You can see that I only used 5 beans for a couple of varieties because I just wouldn't have enough beans left for planting if I used 10 for testing.

Now it's time to show you the "coffee filter method".

This is even easier than the "paper towel method", and it may be easier to keep track of seeds. It's especially good if you don't have many kinds of seeds to test (if you have many, as I do, it would be too many coffee filters), since you only use one kind of seed per coffee filter. I also like to use this for large seeds, such as the larger bean seeds - it's less cumbersome for those than using the "paper towel method".

First, LABEL your coffee filter! Use the same information that I showed for the "paper towel method" labeling - type of crop, variety, source, and year of seed.

Then flip over the filter and spray it with water until it's very wet but not soaked.

Place your seeds in the center area (in case you are wondering, these are Purple Koronis Bush Beans, saved from my garden in 2017).

Then just fold the sides of the wet coffee filter over the seeds so you have a nice little packet with the label showing on top.

As with the paper towel tests, place them in a plastic bag and set in a consistently warm place.

Then, leave your seed germination tests in the warm place for two weeks. Most seeds will germinate in two weeks (there are a few kinds that take longer, like parsley - find out if they are typically long-germinating and leave them in another week). I like to check mine after a week because some seeds (like beans) germinate quickly, and I am impatient about finding out. :) But, I always leave the tests for two weeks.

Checking the tests

After two weeks (or one, if you are impatient and want to see what germinated early), start checking your tests - carefully opening the coffee filters or, even more carefully, unrolling the paper towels. Just take out one set of coffee filter or paper towel tests at a time so that you can keep track of them better.

One disadvantage to the "paper towel method" is that some seeds go really crazy germinating, their roots growing through the paper towels. This can make it more difficult to unroll the towels, and sometimes also to determine which seeds were which, if they get pulled out of place. Unroll the towels as slowly and carefully as possible.

In the above photo, you can see the plastic bag with both paper towel and coffee filter tests. It is also easy to see which beans have germinated. This was after just a week, so I will still roll this back up and leave it in the bag for the full two weeks to see what the beans did that had less germination after one week. If you are not impatient, you can just wait two weeks to begin with. :)

You can also see that my record sheet is at-the-ready, and you can also see how important all that labeling is. 

It's not super clear in the photo, but the first beans (right), the Sieva Lima beans saved from the 2020 garden are only at about 50%. If this is after one week, I would roll them up and leave them in the bag for another week. If this is after two weeks, that means I will toss them - 50% germination is definitely not good enough.

You can see that germination was very good for all the other beans. They are all 100% (there may be one at 90% here - nine beans germinated, but not easy to see in the photo). The packets of these kinds of beans are ones I know I can plant with success.

As I go through them, I write the percentages in the correct columns on my record sheet.

***********************************************************************************

At the end of all testing, I check my record sheet with my packets and containers of seed and remove any that did not test well enough. With the remaining seed that tested well, I can now decide if there are any seeds I still need to purchase (or, get from a friend who has tested seed, or from a seed library - sharing is good!). I can also start making my garden plans!

One more note on choosing which seeds to test: there are some kinds of seed that have very low viability after even a year. Onion seed is one example. For these, don't bother keeping any seed beyond the year, unless it's seed that you saved from your most recent crop. Check the year on seed packets and don't keep these seeds beyond that year. There are charts you can use to determine this (see links below for two examples). This will help you determine what seed to keep, to take a chance on, and what is worth the effort of doing a germination test.

http://my.chicagobotanic.org/wp-content/uploads/Seed-Viability-Chart.pdf

https://www.highmowingseeds.com/blog/seed-viability-chart

***********************************************************************************

Now you are ready to do some simple seed germination testing!

In at nutshell:

Supplies needed:

Paper towels and/or coffee filters

Strips and paper and (non-bleeding) pen

Spray bottle of water

Record sheet (whatever form works for you)

One or more plastic bags (such as gallon freezer bags)

Seeds that you want to test!

Basic directions:

1. Set up your record sheet with labeled columns

2. Select what seeds you want to test

3. Select 10 seeds from the first kind you want to test (10 that look like they have a good chance of sprouting)

4. For "paper towel method": Wet one sheet of paper towel. Place 10 seeds in a row and be sure to include a strip of paper with the crop and variety name, the company (or garden saved from), the year on the seed packet (or year saved from a garden). Continue until the the sheet is full with different types of seed, or until you have done all the kinds of seeds that you want to test. Write all the information on your record sheet, including the starting date. Cover with another wet sheet of paper towel. Roll up carefully. Add a label with a list of general contents. Put in a plastic bag and set on a consistently warm place. 

5. For the "coffee filter method": Write on the coffee filter the same information as above. Wet the coffee filter. Place 10 seeds in the middle (of just one type). Write the information on your record sheet, including the starting date. Fold up the coffee filter sides over the seeds to cover them, with the label showing on top. Put in a plastic bag and set on a consistently warm place.

6. After two weeks, carefully open up tests, one at a time, to check. Note how many seeds have germinated for each type, and figure the percentage germination. Write the percentage on your record sheet.

7. Now you can go to your store of seeds and toss out those that did not germinate well, know what seeds you may need to order, and can start planning your garden!

Terri

Garden Methods: Presentation #2

Presentation #2 - Garden Methods

Prepare to be inspired some more!

Let's say you have your soil test results, and you have observed and analyzed your prospective garden site, and included this information on your graph paper drawing.

You already have loads of information!

What to do next? This is when you can decide what kind of garden methods would work in your space, or in different parts of your space. I'll discuss a number of options here while you consider which of them would be doable for that shady spot, or that place that's always wet, or to work into a porch or gathering area - or whatever you have!

We will be discussing:
- Design concepts
- Terrace/spiral
- Guilds
- Alleyways
- Raised beds (framed or unframed)
- Vertical growing
- Containers

Note: These photos all come from books - the numbers with the photos correspond with the books in the source list at the end of this presentation.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Source #1

Design by Exclusion

Shown here is an example of what one person observed at their place through the seasons - sun/shade, water/moisture, slope. Notice that they drew in the shade cast through the seasons. In the upper left of the drawings is a wet area, designated by little waves.
On the lower left is their analysis, overall, after these observations, such as what is always too wet, what is sunny in the summertime, what is far from the house, etc.
On the lower right is their resulting design. Notice that they placed wetland plants in the upper right area. Berry shrubs and the "summer garden" are in full sun. Fruit trees are in the area farther from the house, as they don't need daily attention, and they can live on the sloped area. The "kitchen garden" and greenhouse are placed near the house - they need constant attention and so need easy daily access.

In such a plan, you can also consider other factors such as air flow patterns and people patterns.

Try this with your plan!

Source #1

Conceptual design samples

This person used "bubble diagrams". They drew a different scenario on each of four maps, trying to find the best, most workable plan. You can see their thought processes here!
Look at each one - why, in each scenario, was this person considering a certain feature for a certain spot? Which plan would you use, if you had the same situation?

There are as many ways to do diagrams as there are people doing them - find what works for you!  Would "bubble diagrams" work for you?

Another way this gardener could have worked on the design was to have one map and then do the possible scenarios on separate sheets of acetate that can be put over the map. Also, there are various computer programs now to help you with garden planning. Again, do what works best for you!

Source #1

Sandwiched garden beds

Consider what may already be in place (in this photo - a greenhouse) or what you might plan to put in place (maybe a greenhouse?) along with what you want to grow. Consider sun and shade.

Greens like cooler weather and can take some shade. In this garden photo, you see them sandwiched between trellised plants and a greenhouse. This helps extend the season on the greens. Don't put sun-lovers in a spot like this!

Notice the flowers planted nearby. They are good companions, which we'll discuss in another presentation.

This is similar to the "alleyway" concept that will come later in this presentation.

Source #1

Gathering/resting space

Where do you and your family or visitors gather? Is there a spot that would be good for creating a gathering place? Where do find yourself relaxing, pondering?

Your vegetable garden can be part of the scenery, too - remember that vegetables can be ornamental! Imagine sitting in this place in the morning or evening, thinking about how your garden is doing, observing from this vantage point, thinking of what you'll do next, making plans, maybe just watching butterflies and hummingbirds. It's good to have a place to just sit with your garden - you will notice so much more, and the ideas will flow. And, you can easily step into your garden to do this or that.

Source #1

Walkway

Use spaces that you have. Look at them and think of different ways they could be used. Let your thoughts flow.

This person wanted a pollinator garden, and also needed to keep this walkway connecting the front and back of the property.

This would also work with herbs. Imagine walking by, smelling the herbs, and picking some as you go. Depending on the amount of sun, you might also grow some vegetables along a place like this. The plant in the right foreground is Globe Artichoke - not easy to grow in our area, but it can give you some ideas. And, you can see that it's an interesting looking plant!

This is another garden that is similar to the "alleyway" concept.

Source #8

Terraces

Do you have a steep or fairly steep slope at your place? Fear not - it can be used to grow a garden! You can use a variety of materials to make a terrace. And, with a terrace you greatly decrease erosion, catching and conserving water for the garden plants, and saving soil. You can nurture and build up the soil on the terrace steps.

Source #1

Spirals

Similar to terracing, here's another way to use a difficult spot, building it upwards and creating a number of useful planting spaces. Herbs are especially adaptable to spirals, and you can find directions for "herb spirals" on line and in books.

Do you have a difficult spot where a spiral garden is a good option?

Source #1

Tree guilds

In Permaculture, "guilds" are a major concept - building a community of plants that thrive together according to nutrient, sun, and light needs - growing food at the same time in a small space. "Tree guilds" are commonly used, mimicking the layers of a forest.

Here we see a tall tree (the canopy - could be a nut tree to provide food) supporting a vining plant (in this case, grapes). Below are the "small tree layer" (such as dwarf fruit trees) and shrub layer (like berry bushes). Close to the ground is the herbaceous layer, which can be annual, biennial, or perennial crops. Then the ground cover layer on top of the soil, and the root layer below, which can be root crops.

One thing I do is to grow Comfrey plants around an apple tree. Their large leaves shade and cool the soil. They provide nutrients to the soil and tree roots. They are medicinal for us, they attract pollinators to their arcs of dangling blue flowers, and they are attractive!

Source #1

Tree guild

Here is a tree with under-plantings of plants in various heights. These are ornamental, but you can easily choose herb, vegetable, or fruit crops.

Source #3

Tree guild

This is a rocky Mediterranean area - different from our area in climate and ground, but a good example of doing more plantings in a difficult spot around a tree. This is a tree well adapted to this climate - Olive. Here, one is creatively surrounded by purple cabbages, and they look very healthy!

Do you have a tree (or more) at your place that you want to keep, and that could be the basis of a tree guild? If so, toy with this idea and do some sketches of what you'd like to grow in the different layers of the guild. This system also keeps a healthy, diverse, balanced ecosystem going, which helps with nutrition and pest control.

Source #1

Alleyways

Now we go back to the concept of "alleyways" mentioned earlier - planting in long areas between taller areas, like the greens sandwiched between the trellises and greenhouse.

In the background is a perennial planting, asparagus, which is on to its "ferny" stage after the season is over and the gardener has quit harvesting the spears. Asparagus can be productive in one spot for 20-30 years, so if you have them or want to grow them - plan to work around them!

The asparagus here creates an "alleyway" with its tallness. Next to it is a wide row (another concept coming up) of an annual crop - I'm assuming sweet potatoes, which flourish in the heat of summer. The poles may be there to support trellising when the gardener needs that for a different crop - but that's just my guess. Then there is another wide bed with more annual crops.

Source #1

Alleyways

Another "alleyway", this shows how rows of annual crops can be tucked between perennials. There are berry shrubs on one side, and young trees (with a grassy walkway) on the other. Between them are wide rows of annual vegetable crops.

Do you have an existing "alleyway" situation at your place? Or, can you create one through your planning of perennial and annual crops?

Source #8

Wide rows

Wide rows are basically raised beds without the frames enclosing and containing them. They are easy to do, and you can keep building up the soil with cover crops, mulch, compost, or rotted manure.

Wide rows also allow you to do staggered plantings and inter-planting, seen here, which also makes it easier to plant companions (we'll get to companions in the next presentation).

As with any raised bed, make the width so that you can easily reach to the middle from either side. For most people, a four foot wide bed is good.

Source #8

Open raised beds

Besides wide rows, you can plant in other shapes for open raised beds, such as the squares and rectangles seen here. One has onions with either cabbages or lettuce - either works fine with onions. Open raised beds are easy to work around, and to build up the soil.

Source #3

Framed raised beds

This photo shows two ideas:
- "Frames" around a raised bed can be minimal as well as decorative. The gardener probably used what was available for weaving these rustic yet pretty borders (especially suitable for historical interpretive gardens). Of course, these "raised beds" don't look deep at all, but you can make them deeper, and make the weaving higher and denser, as was done historically.
- You can use all sorts of shapes and designs, according to your space and sense of aesthetics. Many "kitchen gardens" are, like this one, inspired by formal gardens. You may have seen such gardens, with rounded beds around a central bed.
By the way - notice there is a small tree in the center of the circle (and another one in another bed). Could this center circle become a tree guild??

Do you have a central area that could become a circular bed, surrounded by other beds?

Source #8

Raised bed frames

As mentioned before, frames for raised beds can be created with a variety of materials. They can be fancy, plain, neat, rustic, decorative. Maybe the kids, or you, would like to paint designs on the outsides! You can buy raised bed kits, or just buy materials, or use what you have on hand, or find salvaged materials - just something that contains the bed. This illustration shows some interesting examples.

Why make contained, framed raised beds?
- They are useful for difficult spots, such as if you have poor soil and not enough time to fix it. I once visited an organic garden in Bloomington, Indiana, that was a great example. The people bought a house from someone who had used the garage and grounds as his business for fixing machines or vehicles. There was no good place for an in-ground garden, and they had a very wide gravel drive from garage to road. They gathered concrete blocks found on the property and built raised beds right on top of the gravel! Having built up rich soil within the beds, organically, they were filled with huge, healthy vegetable plants.
- Framed raised beds are easy to plant and maintain, and can look very neat.
- They are adaptable. You can even make very high ones that save a gardener's back, or that are adapted to physical limitations.

Are framed raised beds a good option for your place? What material can you use to build them?

Source #4

Framed raised beds

This place has a good number of raised beds framed with boards. Notice that they have planted them with plants of different heights, low plants in the foreground, tall in the back. These look to be primarily perennials. The gardener was considering the amount and angle of sunlight throughout the day, but maybe also just liked this look.

Source #8

Framed raised beds

We've so far seen squares, rectangles, circles, semi-circles.
Now for triangles! This shape provides a unique ability to use space economically. You can do them individually or as a row, as shown here, and maybe other configurations. They also allow for different planting arrangements within the beds, using corners.

Would triangles fit into your plans?

You could also do hexagonal beds (though they would be more work to create). Think of it - they could go together like a honeycomb! That's real economy of space, design created by the honeybee. Maybe this would work in your situation. You could even put a bee skep in the middle, with plants around it that attract honeybees.

Another raised bed design, which originate with gardeners in Lesotho (a method that conserves resources in a dry climate), is the Keyhole garden. Basically, this is a circle with an entrance to the middle and a circle in the middle. The middle can be used as a compost area, making compost easy to toss onto the garden beds. Some people plant something in the middle, like a small tree, and others simply use the middle circle as another easy access to the planted areas.
The keyhole design does need to be surrounded by something that keeps everything in, just like a framed raised bed. You can get fancy with bricks or stones, or you can get rustic with a tightly woven surround of sticks and bendable twigs.
This is also another space-saving method, very adaptable to small areas and problem spots.
You can find lots of photos, diagrams and directions on line, and in some books. Here is a link to some information and directions:
https://permaculturefoodforest.wordpress.com/2016/04/14/keyhole-gardens/

Source #4

Framed raised beds and verticals

Here are some taller framed raised beds built right over the gravel. And, there are other things going on that will be discussed soon - vertical growing (tepee trellises right inside the beds) and container gardening (the big stone containers scattered about). All three here (frames, trellises, containers) border on fancy, but can easily be done.

Use what you have to do the same thing!

If you had this arrangement, what would you envision planting here?

Source #8

Framed raised bed and vertical

Here's another arrangement of a framed raised bed with a trellis as part of it - but this time a different kind of trellis, fitting right over one end. Under the trellis you can plant more shade-tolerant crops (greens, lettuce, cabbage, etc.), extending their season as the trellis fills up. You can plant sun-loving crops in the open end.

Likewise, if you already have a place where a trellis exists or a place that can be converted to trellising, you can build a raised bed partly under it.

Source #8

Vertical

Here's an idea for using a space next to a house, garage, shed, greenhouse, or other structure to grow more crops. Your vertical growers can be sun-loving crops such as pole beans, pole lima beans, cucumber, squash, luffa, etc.. In the shade it creates between trellis and building can be shade-tolerant crops. Before the vines take off, you can plant quick-growing greens (such as lettuce, spinach, kale, Asian greens, etc.) that will be harvested soon or have their season extended a bit.

Do you have a place along a building, porch, deck, or other spot where you can make a simple leaning trellis? You can also use lattice existing on a porch or other place.

Source #2

Vertical - espalier

Here's another space-saving vertical-growing idea - espaliered fruit trees! This is a very old method of training a small fruit tree to a fence or other such support. Besides taking up less space than an open tree-in-the-round, think how easy it would be to care for an espaliered tree and harvest from it!

Do you have a fence or other place where you might be able to practice espalier? Make sure that other conditions are right for a fruit tree - sun, wind, soil, etc.

Source #4

Containers

We saw some planted containers awhile ago, placed around raised beds on a gravel surface. Here are some container plantings in a group, creating a larger garden out of smaller ones. Notice that the pots are different sizes and heights, the taller ones to the back. The same thing goes for the plantings in the pots here.

You can easily substitute vegetable and herb plants, and companion flowers, in the containers, and you can plant more than one thing in a pot if the pot is the right size and the plants are good companions. Think of how large they will be when full grown. When selecting varieties of vegetables and herbs with container gardening in mind, notice if the company mentions that a variety is especially well suited to containers. Otherwise, look for more compact plants, and smaller types. You can also add a trellis to a container for climbers.

Source #1

Containers

How about these for containers?!
Containers can be any size, as long as they are suitable for the particular plants. In this case, the barrels make it possible to grow crops that have exceptionally long tap roots, and to keep those roots straight. Perhaps this gardener's regular soil is either hard (clay) or stony, which would hinder the roots or cause them to be misshapen.

Lining the barrels up along the side of this building is a good use of space. Also, the building might reflect more heat to the plants. This is a consideration for creating a micro-climate, which we'll talk about later.

Do you see the other method being used here? Yes - vertical gardening! Trellises can be incorporated into container planting, even just in pots. The building here seems to serve as extra support for these heavily-laden trellises.

Just about anything can be used for container planting (even a hollowed-out old bowling ball), as long as it doesn't have any unsafe materials, but it does have drainage holes. If it doesn't already have holes, you can create some with a drill or a hammer and large nail.

If you got one of the give-away Grow Bags and seed potatoes, you are doing another kind of container garden, and I hope it's going well! When you are done growing potatoes, you can grow other things in the Grow Bag, but don't follow the potatoes with other members of the Solanaceae family (like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, tomatillos, etc.). Be sure to replenish the soil with compost or other good soil.

Source #6

Containers

Look at this!
A simple net-style compost bin is being used as a container garden. You know that's rich soil in there, and really good for those potato plants! This container garden is made prettier by the ribbons woven through the netting and the pansies planted all around the bottom (where nutrient-rich stuff collects). You could also make a compost bin-cum-container garden with a circle of wire fencing, snow fencing, or chicken wire, supported by a few stakes.

Are you getting ideas?
Do you already have things around that can be used for a container garden? It's also fun to search thrift shops and other places, looking at items in a completely different way, as possible containers for gardens.

Containers give you the freedom of placement here and there, or to group them together. You can move them in and out of sun and rain, into or out of hot or cold spots, or even bring them indoors when needed, depending on the container's heaviness. But, remember that container gardens need more watering attention than in-ground or on-ground gardens. But, there are tricks for slow, extended watering that you can buy or make.

You can also think of a contained/framed raised bed as a "container garden" if you have used a barrier on the bottom so that the plant roots have no contact with the existing soil or other surface. This is useful if you have questionable soil, or if you are unsure of what's in your soil (such as heavy metals).

Source #7

Microclimates

We end with the vegetable gardens of Thomas Jefferson's Monticello, in Virginia. It's quite large and elaborate! And very ambitious. Not what any of us would be doing at our places, in city or country. Today it requires a hefty staff of professionals and volunteers to maintain. In Jefferson's time, that meant slaves.

But I show it here to illustrate one other consideration - micro-climates.

When you look at a map of planting zones in the United States, you'll see that the spot where Monticello exists has the same zone number as the spot where we exist. That may seem surprising! But, micro-climates make the difference in what we do, and what Jefferson did. After all, we don't have mountains, and we are all huddled into low river valleys here.

Using the mountainside (with a "sea view" of the Piedmont), Jefferson had terraces created (like we talked about earlier, but way bigger). The first terrace is home to the extensive vegetable garden, longer at either end than we can see here. This made it possible to garden on the mountain slope, and it also created a micro-climate (south-facing) to help grow an extremely wide variety of vegetables (Jefferson had a fascination with plants and brought seeds and plants from different parts of the world to try to grow in Virginia, sometimes successfully).

The next terrace down, to the left in the photo (we can't see beyond the actual terrace in this photo) created a micro-climate that grows four varieties of fig trees (not something we can do much in our area, despite being the same zone), against that terrace. Below that are the vineyards and the South Orchard.

We can do similar things at our places to create special micro-climates, on a much smaller scale, no matter the size of our space. Look over your place and see where micro-climates may already exist - spots that are different from the general climate. This may be due to shade, trapped air (maybe creating a cold or wet spot), extra sun (maybe creating a hot, dry spot), extra moisture, or strongly flowing air.

What can you do there, differently? And, is there anywhere at your place you can create a micro-climate to grow some different things (maybe even a fig tree)?

The physical "limits" at your place are really only limits by imagination. Work with what you have, let the ideas flow!

**********************************

Go through this presentation again, think about your place, toy around with your plans.

And, please do share your plans with all of us! We all love to see your progress, and it could create discussion, advice, ideas among us all. You can share them on the Grow City Teaching Garden Facebook page, or by responding to the email through which this presentation was sent.

(Note: I did not get into some methods here, such as Hugelkulture, lasagna layering/sheet mulching, composting-in-place to create beds, etc. These are all methods that can be used in creating one of the concepts taught here, such as wide beds, raised beds, etc.)

NOW:
Before the next presentation appears, do this .... create a "wish list"!! What would you like to grow?
Next time we'll look at different planting methods, which will help you further with your plans and also help you narrow down your choices of what crop varieties to use.
But, wishes come first!

Just remember:
- Keep It Simple
- Grow what your household will use
- Start small
- Start with the easier-to-grow things.

:) As always - have fun! :)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Source list for photos:

1. Practical Permaculture: for home landscapes, your community, and the whole earth; by Jessi Bloom and Dave Boehnlein; Timber Press, Inc.; 2015. (available at the Knox County Public Library)

2. The Art of French Vegetable Gardening; by Louisa Jones; Artisan; 1995.

3. Kitchen Gardens of France; by Louisa Jones; Thames and Hudson; 1997.

4. Designing the New Kitchen Garden: an American potager handbook; by Jennifer R. Bartley; Timber Press, Inc.; 2006.

5. Mother Earth News Organic Gardening Collector Series; 2019.

6. Mother Earth News Wiser Living Series: Guide to Organic Gardening.

7. "A Rich Spot of Earth": Thomas Jefferson's Revolutionary Garden at Monticello; by Peter J. Hatch; Yale University Press; 2012.

8. High-Yield Gardening: How to get more from your garden space and more from your gardening season; by Marjorie Hunt and Brenda Bortz; Rodale Press; 1986.

(Note on the last book: This is the book that changed the way I looked at gardening and stretched what I saw as the possibilities. I used to check it out of the public library a lot. I must have been the only one doing so, because when I went through a period of not checking it out, it was weeded from the collection. My husband searched for it on line and it was out of print, but he located used copies at such ridiculously low prices that we got our copy for less than it cost to ship it. For a large book that so packed with wonderfulness, I don't understand how any of this happened. But, I'm very glad to have my own copy, and I urge you to search for one, too.)


%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Garden Methods and Planning

Resources in the Knox County Public Library and Web Sites

The Backyard Homestead (editor Carleen Madigan); 2009; 641 Ba

Chapter on Home Vegetable Gardening: raised beds, containers, vertical. Also, landscaping, herbs

Ball, Jeff; Jeff Ball's 60-Minute Garden; 1985; 635 Ba

Raised beds, tunnels, vertical, also has some specific plans for constructing.

Bartholomew, Mel; All-New Square Foot Gardening; 2013; 635 Ba

Bloom, Jessi, and Dave Boehnlein; Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community, the Whole Earth; 2015; 631.58 Bl

Brenna, Georgeanne, and Mimi Luebbermann; Little Herb Gardens; 1993; 635.7 Br

CaliKim; Organic Gardening for Everyone; 2020; 6354 Ca

Indoor, raised beds, containers, glossary of garden terms.

Clarke, Ethne; Herb Garden Design; 1995; 635.7 Cl

Damrosch, Barbara; The Garden Primer; 1988; 635 Da

Plants, landscape plans shown (pp. 10-11), vegetable garden plans shown (pp. 194-195)

Damrosch, Barbara; Theme Gardens; 2001; 635.9 Da

Easton, Valerie; The New Low-Maintenance Garden; 2009; 635 Ea

Design, style, containers

Eddison, Sydney; Gardening for a Lifetime: How to garden wiser as you grow older; 2010; 635 Ed

Helps in rethinking spaces.

Flowerdew, Bob; No Work Garden; 2002; 635 Fl

Gardening for All Seasons (New Alchemy Institute); 1983; 635 Ga

Indoor, solar greenhouse, raised beds

Gettle, Jere and Emilee; The Heirloom Life Gardener; 2011; 635 Ge

Chapter 7 – City Farmer

Guerra, Michael; The Edible Container Garden; 2000; 635 Gu

Hendy, Jenny; Kid's First Gardening; 2014; 635 He

Many ideas for any age, including – basket of squash, grow bag garden, patio veggie garden, potato bin, hanging basket, windowsill salad, herb pyramid, herb wheel, runner bean wigwam, checkerboard plot, and more.

Hirvela, Stacey; Edible Spots and Pots; 2014; 635 Hi

Great for small spaces.

Jabbour, Niki; The Year-Round Vegetable Gardener; 2011; 635 Ja

Intensive planting, cold frames/seasonal, raised beds, tunnels/solar, site selection, vertical, plots and design.

Lanza, Patricia; Lasagna Gardening; 1998; 635 La

Vertical, foundation plantings, other garden methods – landscape plans shown on pp. 4-5.

Lavelle, Christine, and Michael; How to Grow Organic; 2008; 635.048

Planning, methods. See pp. 122-155 The Kitchen Garden.

(by same authors: The Organic Garden; 2003; 635.048 La Tall Books)

Maguire, Kay, and Tony Woods; Big Ideas for Small Spaces; 2017; 635 Ma

Markham, Brett L.; Mini-Farming for Self-Sufficiency; 2006; 630 Ma

Raised beds, trees/fruits/vines, vertical/trellising

Newcomb, Duane; The Vegetable Garden Factory: Super Yields from Small Spaces; 1988; 635 Ne

The Organic Gardener's Complete Guide to Vegetables and Fruits; 1982; 635 Or

Primeau, Liz; Front Yard Gardens; 2003; 635.9 Pr

Mainly featuring ornamental gardens, but ideas are adaptable to food gardens (especially when considering many vegetable plants as ornamentals)

Richardson, Fern; Small Space Container Gardens; 2012; 635.986 Ri

Rodale's All New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening; 1997; 635.048 Ro

Smith, Edward C.; The Vegetable Gardener's Bible; 2009; 635 Sm

Wide beds, raised beds, seed catalogs/plants, vertical, planning.

Smith, P. Allen; Living in the Garden Home; 2007; 635 Sm

Loads of ideas for small, beautiful spaces, including vertical, container, etc.

Soler, Ivette; The Edible Front Yard; 2011; 653 So

Tozer, Frank; The Organic Gardener's Handbook; 2008; 635.048 To

Includes site selection

Trail, Gayla; You Grow Girl; 2005; 635 Tr

Great for urban situations, lots of ideas.

Wilson, Jim; Landscaping with Container Plants; 1990; 635.9 Wi

Also check magazines available at the library, such as Mother Earth News and Horticulture.

Web Sites

Planting Potatoes:

thespruce.com/growing-potatoes-in-containers-848220

balconygardenweb.com/growing-potatoes-in-containers-how-to-grow-potatoes-in-pots

almanac.com/plant/potatoes

Garden Methods:

morningchores.com/gardening-methods

18 Garden Methods to Choose From to Maximize Your Space

gardeningchannel.com/10-unusual-gardening-methods

Container Gardens:

goodhousekeeping.com/home/gardening/a20707074/container-gardening-tips

thespruce.com/container-vegetable-gardening-1403396

thespruce.com/vegetable-container-gardening-for-beginners-848161

thespruce.com/great-vegetables-to-grow-in-containers-848214

thespruce.com/lettuce-garden-in-a-bag-848241

Raised Beds:

goodhousekeeping.com/home/gardening/g20706096/how-to-build-a-simple-raised-bed

(using just planks and rebar)

thespruce.com/raised-bed-garden-ideas-4172154

15 Raised Bed Garden Design Ideas